There is no town in Italy which commands so magnificent a panorama of the chain of Alps as Turin. The wide plain on which it stands, with its sea-like surface broken into undulations by ranges of low hills, crested with copses and sparkling villas, rolls many a league around, until it is suddenly interrupted by the mighty rampart which encircles it in a horseshoe curve 250 miles in length. Many noble peaks rise at intervals along the ridge; northwards of the dazzling snows of Monte Rosa and the Lyskamm, and in the S.W., where the great chain approaches nearer than elsewhere, it towers up into the rugged pinnacle of Monte Viso, one of the most precipitous and striking mountains in Europe. The streets in Turin are straight, and cross each other at right angles; stand where are you will, and look in any direction excepting eastward, and some portion of the Alps closes in the vista. In one of the quarters of the city half of the streets open out towards Monte Viso, so that it is almost constantly in view, and stands like a giant sentinel, sleepless, immortal, keeping guard over the kingdom at its feet.
For
anyone standing on Monte dei Cappuccini today, a small hill overlooking the
River Po in Turin, these words are no less true than they were when they were
penned 155 years ago. On a clear day, the pyramidal outline of Monviso (Monte
Viso in French) to the south-west of the city is unmistakeable and dominates
the skyline in this quadrant.
The
passage of text is taken from the opening paragraph of an account of the first
recorded ascent of the 3,841-metre peak on 30 August 1861 by two British
climbers, William Matthews and Frederick Jacomb, together with their French
guides, Jean-Baptiste Croz and Michael Croz. Known attempts had been made on
Monviso before, the first serious one of which had been made in 1834 by
Domenico Ansaldi, a local surveyor, but because of insurmountable obstacles and
dense mist, his group had to give up and turn back at a height of around 3,700
metres. In 1839, the British physicist and glaciologist, James David Forbes,
reconnoitred the mountain and was the first to make a circular tour of the
massif.
Matthews’
ascent took place during the golden age of mountaineering, a period between
around 1854 and 1865 when most of the major peaks of the Alps were summitted
for the first time. It was dominated by British alpinists and their Swiss and
French guides and culminated rather poignantly in the fateful first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865. For many alpinists at the time mountaineering was
primarily a sport, but more often than not there was a scientific objective to
the climbs and, as well as carrying a variety of instruments up the mountain
with them, they also made detailed descriptions of their adventures. No
surprise then that a full account (including the introductory passage above)
appeared in Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, one of the leading journals of the
time, which eventually became the Alpine Journal.
But
now, astonishingly, new evidence has come to light which casts doubt on the
record claimed by Matthews in 1861. The findings of this new research contend
that there was a real possibility that Monviso was first ascended 110 years
previously in 1751. French and Italian historians working in collaboration
stumbled across early maps of the region which suggest that the mountains had
been accurately surveyed by means of triangulation in the 18th century. In
their research paper, Une autre histoire des Alpes. Les ascensions oubliées des officiers géographes et des habitants des Alpes du Sud (1750-1850), Oliver
Joseph and Paul Billon-Grand (historians based in Vallouise, France), Eugenio
Garoglio (researcher at the University of Turin) and Alexandre Nicolas
(cartographer) argue that in order to achieve the accuracy of measurements to
produce such detailed maps, using the principles of triangulation, engineers
must have had access to the highest points in the district, including Monviso.
Despite
being mountainous and largely inaccessible, in the 18th century the territory
in the surroundings of the Cottian Alps, of which Monviso is the highest peak,
was heavily contested by France and Savoy, so it was important for military
strategists of the day to have detailed knowledge of the terrain. Between 1749
and 1754, Pierre-Joseph Bourcet (1700 – 1780), a French military engineer and
cartographer, was commissioned to map the borders in this part of the Alps. By
then, triangulation had become the most accurate method of mapping, already
having a long history in France. The theory of triangulation, based on the
principles of trigonometry, has been described elsewhere in these columns, but
measurements in the field would have involved the accurate calculation of
distances between the highest points in the vicinity, such as towers and
hilltops, with the aid of surveying equipment. As visible poles would have had
to be used, this would have meant accessing these points to obtain precise
measurements.
The
researchers have compared the observations on the old maps with modern
cartography and discovered that the heights of mountains and the distances
between summits differ by only a few metres, measured over distances of 15 to
20 kilometres. According to the researchers, this level of accuracy – around 1%
out - could have only been possible if the highest points, including that of
Monviso, had been climbed. Documents archived in the records office of the
Hautes-Alpes département reveal that military surveyors officers would have
been accompanied in these ascents by local villagers who would carry the
equipment as well as act as guides. They would have been employed to place
ranging rods (tree trunks) with flags on the summits which would have been
visible for miles around. At this stage no one knows for sure whether Monviso
was indeed scaled during this period, but maps made at the time include
topographic icons pinpointing the exact locations used in the triangulation
process (in much as the same way the Ordnance Survey of Great Britain use
trig-point symbols on its maps today).
Of course, there are counterhypotheses too, which argue that given the known technology and mountaineering skills available in the 1750s, it would have been nigh impossible to reach the top of Monviso, In fact, the first documentary evidence of an attempt on Monviso by the surveyor Domenico Ansaldi in 1834 - by which time cartographic technology had advanced considerably - shows that his team of staff were beaten back fairly convincingly by the elements.
Whilst
the researchers are confident about their initial findings, they concede that
more documentary evidence will have to be uncovered before it is known whether
the mapmakers beat the mountaineers to the top of one of the Alps’ most iconic
peaks. Aficionados of epic tales of exploration and cartography like myself await their
findings with interest, but it would not be the first time that mapmakers, rather than alpinists, made mountaineering history.
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